|
Post by dentdaddy on Nov 17, 2014 15:44:54 GMT -5
Yes, a sharper tool is needed to basically pick out the low areas and fine tune the dent. You really have to know exactly where the tool tip is, and concentrate on matching the surrounding orange peel. Not actually seeing this dent, my guess from the photos is that you brought the dent up too quickly. With each push, the goal is to "unlock" the stress within a dent.....WITHOUT causing any more undue stress within the dent (over-pushing) One of the hardest things to grasp when starting out is to avoid over pushing. Look at any good you tube video and count the number of times a tech will push a dent before finally dialing it in - it will surprise you - sometimes even a small dent will require over 100 well placed pushes to coax it out. You should avoid pushing too many highs as that will make the metal less pliable. Hope this helps - Bob
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 17, 2014 16:55:56 GMT -5
Yes, a sharper tool is needed to basically pick out the low areas and fine tune the dent. You really have to know exactly where the tool tip is, and concentrate on matching the surrounding orange peel. Not actually seeing this dent, my guess from the photos is that you brought the dent up too quickly. With each push, the goal is to "unlock" the stress within a dent.....WITHOUT causing any more undue stress within the dent (over-pushing) One of the hardest things to grasp when starting out is to avoid over pushing. Look at any good you tube video and count the number of times a tech will push a dent before finally dialing it in - it will surprise you - sometimes even a small dent will require over 100 well placed pushes to coax it out. You should avoid pushing too many highs as that will make the metal less pliable. Hope this helps - Bob Thanks Bob Made a new try today and used a sharper tip. I had a even sharper dent today made by knock down in the picture. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 17, 2014 17:00:20 GMT -5
I basically went well the second time but I got a tiny high I could not get rid off it. When I took the high down, I created a low. Pushed the low, avoiding the previous high spot but it came back. I would accept it on my own car due to I could buff it down. But I guess it can be avoided. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by dentdaddy on Nov 17, 2014 17:22:08 GMT -5
I like your dedication, but you will notice on very sharp small dents, it becomes difficult to find your tool tip. In my opinion the best dents to start with are shallower dents made with a golf ball in a sock. Also when pushing with a sharp tipped tool, the worst thing you can do to find your tool tip is to push out a high. This can complicate the dent, make it more work hardened or brittle, and at very worst cause micro cracks in the paint. Also I prefer working deeper sharp dents with the aid of a heat gun. Pushing dents properly, and finding the exact spot with your tool tip will only come with practice practice practice........believe me after a while, you will look at a dent, grab the exact tool you need, and be on it within seconds making your first push. It is exactly comparable to shooting a basketball into a little hoop. Some of my best practice when I first started out was done with a hood on a stand in my living room while watching T.V. during commercial breaks.
|
|
|
Post by hockeynut on Nov 17, 2014 17:25:19 GMT -5
On your next dent try to tap down around the dent and make it larger( sometimes you have to make it look worse before you can make it look better) . This will soften the dent giving the metal that is low somewhere to go as you are bringing it up. Sharp dents on dark metallic colors are easier due to the fact that the eye cannot see the movement of the metallic, on silvers, gold lighter metallic colors if care is not used while pushing the low the metallic will move out of its original place.
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 18, 2014 1:13:55 GMT -5
I like your dedication, but you will notice on very sharp small dents, it becomes difficult to find your tool tip. In my opinion the best dents to start with are shallower dents made with a golf ball in a sock. Also when pushing with a sharp tipped tool, the worst thing you can do to find your tool tip is to push out a high. This can complicate the dent, make it more work hardened or brittle, and at very worst cause micro cracks in the paint. Also I prefer working deeper sharp dents with the aid of a heat gun. Pushing dents properly, and finding the exact spot with your tool tip will only come with practice practice practice........believe me after a while, you will look at a dent, grab the exact tool you need, and be on it within seconds making your first push. It is exactly comparable to shooting a basketball into a little hoop. Some of my best practice when I first started out was done with a hood on a stand in my living room while watching T.V. during commercial breaks. Thanks Bob I really apprechiate all members advice and I have read almost every post you and others have made. I fully belive what you write about the level you can reach. I saw PDR first time for a year ago and said to myself, I want to learn - it looks not so hard. And it is not, once you have learned it. So shallow dent is now easy and the metal just moves in place. It used to be hell and looked as a moon landscape But I do think I push to hard and moves the metall to quick. I do find the center but it takes some time. I tried a heat gun for a while ago but stopped when I thought the metal becam wierd. I will give it a try again for sure. I will also do something in between. The dent of yeasterday was not at my level.
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 18, 2014 2:12:41 GMT -5
On your next dent try to tap down around the dent and make it larger( sometimes you have to make it look worse before you can make it look better) . This will soften the dent giving the metal that is low somewhere to go as you are bringing it up. Sharp dents on dark metallic colors are easier due to the fact that the eye cannot see the movement of the metallic, on silvers, gold lighter metallic colors if care is not used while pushing the low the metallic will move out of its original place. Thanks hockeynut I worked the shoulder several times as the dent moved up but I did not soften it so much. I will try this method on a litte less agressive dent. Interesting about metalic colours. Regards Mikael
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 18, 2014 17:31:54 GMT -5
Did another crease today. Last part of right hand of the crease went under a tight brace. Have no tools yet for working under braces: Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 18, 2014 17:35:42 GMT -5
Do not know what to aim for. Did the crosschecks and it went well. But it is not completly gone. There is a shadow on paint peal level. I did try a sharp tip but never got it invicible. Am I aiming to high? Can barely be seen ? Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 18, 2014 17:37:35 GMT -5
Another pic. Should I stop here or aim for fix on peal level?
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 18, 2014 17:38:32 GMT -5
With pic this time Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by dentdaddy on Nov 18, 2014 21:37:55 GMT -5
Doing a crease is very exacting work - I assume you have been trained by KDP on how to deal with creases, if not...get with him - he has a video on crease repair. As far as braces, when I first started out, I dreaded having to work in braced areas. After doing a few hail cars...I began enjoying brace work....it provides a challenge for access sometimes, but when you can get your tool locked into an area that provides good leverage, the tool holds it's place against the brace and you can really dial in with micro pushes to glass it out without tool slippage or a wandering tip. If the panel you are working on is a hood , a good 6-10 inch whale tail should be your next purchase. Your work looks to be improving. Keep on pushing - Bob
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 19, 2014 1:24:05 GMT -5
Doing a crease is very exacting work - I assume you have been trained by KDP on how to deal with creases, if not...get with him - he has a video on crease repair. As far as braces, when I first started out, I dreaded having to work in braced areas. After doing a few hail cars...I began enjoying brace work....it provides a challenge for access sometimes, but when you can get your tool locked into an area that provides good leverage, the tool holds it's place against the brace and you can really dial in with micro pushes to glass it out without tool slippage or a wandering tip. If the panel you are working on is a hood , a good 6-10 inch whale tail should be your next purchase. Your work looks to be improving. Keep on pushing - Bob Thats good advice! Been thinking a lot what to buy for tools with a limited budget. Hail damaged cars are unknown in Scandinavia so my focus will be side panels for repair doors and also hoods/trunks. Been struggeling on my own all year with PDR video (all of them I think, Mike Toledo, Shane Jack, Tim Olsen, all the russians) but with KDP I began to understand how to attack a dent. Never yet got any one2one training. Some videos train the total opposite. I miss Keith crease video but Tim Olsen and Keith are similar in methods. So far, I only got a Tim Olsen crease video. I will get myself a whale tail Br Mikael
|
|
|
Post by dentdaddy on Nov 19, 2014 12:19:12 GMT -5
It might not hurt to try to make contact with your nearest local PDR tech as your training progresses. Most guys I have talked to are willing to take the time to answer any questions and help you out a little......BUT , it has to be kind of a courtship process. Be humble. Be completely honest with them as to why you are there - Specifically ask them if they can help you out a little, and if they do, be very appreciative. Everyone who has been on this journey can relate to what it takes to learn the trade. The nice guys will accommodate you - The jerks will be the ones you will bury in the future when you get good.
|
|
|
Post by mrmikaelericsson on Nov 19, 2014 13:21:06 GMT -5
It might not hurt to try to make contact with your nearest local PDR tech as your training progresses. Most guys I have talked to are willing to take the time to answer any questions and help you out a little......BUT , it has to be kind of a courtship process. Be humble. Be completely honest with them as to why you are there - Specifically ask them if they can help you out a little, and if they do, be very appreciative. Everyone who has been on this journey can relate to what it takes to learn the trade. The nice guys will accommodate you - The jerks will be the ones you will bury in the future when you get good. It is a really god advice but ... - I have twice adverticed this on internet, that I looked for support and was willing to pay - My local dent company offered my this for 3.000 dollars (regulary cource) - PDR is quite/almost unknown in Scandinavia. Not many companies and no supplier for tools ( only from UK and Germany) - My friend has no time to support
|
|